Capturing the Catwalk: Runway Photography from the Michel Arnaud Archive is a one-of-a-kind exhibition that brings together the worlds of fashion history, photography, and the runway. Today, exhibition curator and FIDM Museum Registrar Meghan Hansen takes you behind-the-scenes of her curatorial process – the first of a three part series.

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Capturing the Catwalk is the first FIDM Museum exhibition to feature designer clothing alongside runway photographs of the models in matching garments. This is also the first exhibition I have curated from scholarly research of primary sources, as well as the first time many of the photos and objects have been on view to the public. It’s truly a landmark show for the FIDM Museum!

Title wall of Capturing the Catwalk. All photographs in exhibition by Michel Arnaud, gift of Arnaud Associates (SC2000.1095.1).

The FIDM Museum has been home to the Michel Arnaud Fashion Photography Archive since 2000, when it was donated as a whole by Arnaud Associates. As the photographer told me recently, he was searching for an institution that would keep the archive intact, which is exactly what we have done. In my role as Registrar for the FIDM Museum, I am heavily involved with the various digitization projects underway, including for collection documentation, publication, and the Museum’s website. As it turns out, I love “Digital Asset Management,” which is the process of organizing digital files for ease of access and preservation.

A single slide amongst thousands – Jean Paul Gaultier, Fall/Winter 1992.

In this capacity, I worked with the FIDM Library to begin digitizing the nearly 200,000 slides (color 35mm) donated by Arnaud. You can learn more about this project here. Through my work with the Library and the Museum’s curators, I delved deeper into the Arnaud Archive, uncovering many ways to learn from and utilize the collection. Then, knowing just how much work it would be, I agreed to curate an exhibition on the Archive.

Betsy Bloomingdale’s haute couture evening gown by Gianfranco Ferre for Dior, Fall/Winter 1989-1990 (2006.116.13) was captured on the runway by Michel Arnaud. It is shown with its matching hand-colored croquis (SC2006.116.81). Gift of Mrs. Alfred Bloomingdale.

I contacted Michel Arnaud with hopes that he would share his experiences with me for the exhibition; I was able to schedule a phone interview with him, in which we discussed a variety of topics about his career in fashion. This conversation became the framework for the exhibition. To get an idea of his story, here is a short clip about the photographer’s career:

FIDM Museum Announces Runway Photography Exhibit Featuring Works by Michel Arnaud from FIDM on Vimeo.FIDM Publications and Museum staff capture the photographer’s story for the exhibition documentary.

Initially, I created a list of over 400 photographs and objects to include in the exhibition — more than enough for a book… or four! My colleagues were extremely helpful in honing down the content so that it would fit in the exhibition space. Many difficult decisions were made, cutting some spectacular photos in order to prioritize the ones that matched with garments and accessories from the Permanent Collection. While this was agonizing for a brief moment, I was excited to see the object layout begin to take shape.

Next came hashing out the exhibition themes, choosing which objects belonged to each section, and making it all work together thematically as well as visually. This was no small feat! I tried a variety of configurations, finally landing on a layout with a good flow for visitors. The major themes are: Catwalk History; Lights, Camera, Runway!; Editorial Vision; Welcome to the Jungle; Fashion Capitals; and Accessory to Fashion.

With only 3 weeks left before the exhibition closes on July 7, I hope that every one of our readers can make it to see Capturing the Catwalk in person. And for those of you who are not local, check back here for more tidbits about the exhibition!