We are now four months into 2019 – have you noticed an influx of coral hues in your social media feed, fashion editorials, or latest tech gadgets? Announced last December, the 2019 Color of the Year ‘ Living Coral’ (officially known as PANTONE 16-1546) “embraces us with warmth and nourishment”[1] while “symbolizing our innate need for optimism and joyful pursuits.”[2] A color uniquely linked to nature, Living Coral celebrates beauty found in the outdoors, while also reminding consumers of the importance of environmental preservation; though the color sparks positivity, the latest research shows that about one-fifth of the world’s coral reefs have been lost or damaged.[3]In fact, several design houses, including Tiffany and Company, have vowed to stop working with the endangered resource, and international trade regulations restrict the exportation of red coral harvested after 1969.[4]
Claude Monet, “Impression, Soleil Levant,” 1872, courtesy of the Musée Marmottan Monet
Ironically, rather than representing nature’s vulnerability, coral was once worn to protect children and ward off evil in ancient Rome.[5] It has been used for centuries as a prized gemstone for jewelry, from Victorian carved cameos to Art Deco pendants, rings, and hair combs; in Native American jewelry, coral symbolizes “success and social prominence.”[6] And what would Impressionist paintings be without vibrant coral sunsets and plants? Nineteenth century artists used iron-oxide cadmium pigments to achieve the rich, saturated hues for their work – an improvement on the vermillion and minium (“red lead”) pigments used by their predecessors, and certainly safer than the ancient mineral realgar, which contained toxic levels of arsenic.[7]
Evening Gown
Paquin, Paris, Winter 1912
Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection
FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds generously donated by Disney Worldwide, 2017.5.55AB
Pantone’s Color of the Year is selected by the for-profit Color Institute after analyzing current trends in a variety of industries, such as entertainment, art, fashion and design, travel, technology, and even socio-political events. A brief look at the FIDM Museum Collection shows that coral has been in fashion long before Pantone deemed it the official color of 2019; in our storage, Gianni Versace’s bold Miami coral lives alongside the silky coral of a couture Paquin evening gown. Here, we’re sharing a few of our favorite coral objects with you – treasures indeed, no matter the year!
Hair jewelry brooch with coral bead frame
1800-1899
Gift of Andrea Tice in memory of Carmelita Johnson
2008.46.178
Lamé and silk evening coat
Jeanne Lanvin, Summer 1931
FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds generously donated by Barbara Bundy
2010.37.2
Straw panama hat
Gianni Versace, Spring/Summer 1989
Gift of Joan Worth in memory of Marvin Worth, V2006.890.1280
Printed silk crepe fabric swatch
1915-1930
Gift of Robert Fortunoff, 99.274.48
Day dress with ties
Claire McCardell, 1950s
Gift of Joan Beer Damask and Donald Damask, S2016.1250.10
Silk net cap with taffeta ribbon trim, c. 1845
Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection
FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds generously donated by Linda & Steven Plochocki
2018.5.33
Cocktail dress, 1950s
Gift of an Anonymous Donor, S2004.40.2
[1] “Pantone 16=1546 Living Coral Introduction,” Pantone Website: https://www.pantone.com/color-intelligence/color-of-the-year/color-of-the-year-2019
[2] Ibid.
[3] According to The World Counts environmental website: http://www.theworldcounts.com/counters/ocean_ecosystem_facts/coral_reef_destruction_facts
[4] Abigail R. Esman, “The Soft Call of Coral,” The New York Times, March 14, 2016: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/14/fashion/jewelry-coral.html
[5] Ibid.
[6] Jeffrey Bacon, “Native American Use of Coral in Jewelry,” T. Skies Website, August 20, 2015: https://tskies.com/native-american-use-of-coral-in-jewelry/
[7] Jacqui Palumbo, “A Brief History of Living Coral, Pantone’s Color of the Year,” Artsy.com, December 5, 2018: https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-history-living-coral-pantones-color-year
