Today's post, originally published in 2010, explores a 1964 Pucci print inspired by designer Emilio Pucci's travels in Africa.

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Emilio Pucci's (1914-1992) intensely colored prints are one of the most
easily identifiable signatures in fashion. Often described as "kaleidoscopic,"
a classic Pucci print is a swirling mass of abstract shapes, sinuous lines and
wild color. Emilio Pucci designed these prints himself, drawing inspiration from his
Italian heritage and his extensive travels around the globe. The dynamic
composition of the prints was perhaps inspired by Pucci's experience as a World
War II pilot. In later years, he "clearly recalled the constant movement and the
kaleidoscope of colors that spread out before him" when flying over
Europe.¹

By the early 1960s, Pucci prints, in the form of lightweight, easily packed
silk jersey dresses, were tremendously popular with the international jet set.
Not only were the prints exciting, the fit was also provocative. Pucci's dresses were
designed to highlight the body, lacking the rigid understructure of most 1950s
dress designs. Widely copied at all price-points, the exuberant pattern and
figure-skimming silhouette of a Pucci dress embodied the youthful, optimistic
spirit that dominated the 1960s.

Maxi dress
1964
Emilio Pucci
Gift of Mrs. Robert L. Wood
97.692.1

When Pucci first began designing sophisticated, yet casual, capri pants and
silk shirts on the island of Capri in the late 1940s, he purchased his fabrics
from retailers. By the early 1950s, Pucci's popularity and reputation had grown
to the point that he was able to work with textile firms to produce the specific
fabrics he wanted. He preferred to work with natural fibers, like cotton,
cashmere or his signature silk jersey. After a suitable foundation fabric was
developed, Pucci personally supervised the process of printing his signature
textile designs on the base fabric. To help authenticate his widely copied
textile designs, Pucci prints always included "Emilio" as a visible design
element. This can be seen in the detail shot
below.

97.692.1 Detail

The vibrant Pucci print seen on this dress was inspired by a trip to Africa
in the early 1960s. Presented in the summer of 1964, the entire collection
featured prints inspired by African masks on both silk jersey and the velveteen
seen here. In the image above, look for the elongated pink, green, blue and red
lozenges, which resemble abstracted masks. A New York Times fashion
critic called the prints, "direct and strong…completely modern."²
In borrowing from African art, Pucci followed in the footsteps of influential
20th century modern artists, including Picasso, Matisse and Brancusi. All of
these artists, and many others, found that stylized African art offered an
inspiring change from the naturalism of Western art.

97.692.1 Back view

1 Kennedy, Shirley. Pucci: A Renaissance in
Fashion New York: Abbeville Press. 1991: 25.
2 Peterson, Patricia. "Pucci Paints Fashions in
Bold Strokes From Africa." New York Times 21 July 1964: 24.